Leather Repair
How to Change a Zipper on a Jacket: A DIY Guide for Leather and Fabric Jackets
Check if the slider can be saved first. If not, unpick the old zipper, fit a separating zipper of the same length and sew along the old line. Leather tips too.
To change a zipper on a jacket, unpick the old one with a seam ripper, then sew in a new separating zipper of the same length along the old stitching line, using a zipper foot. On a leather jacket, add three things: open the lining to reach the zipper tape, use a leather needle and polyester thread, and hold the zipper with glue or basting tape instead of pins.
Before you replace anything, check whether the zipper actually needs replacing. Many broken zippers only need the slider refitted or the teeth realigned. This guide is part of our leather repair at home series.
Key takeaways- Teeth splitting behind the slider or a slider that came off can often be fixed without a new zipper.- A jacket needs a separating zipper, the same length as the old one.- Measure from the top of the top stop to the bottom of the retainer box.- On leather, every needle hole is permanent, so sew through the old holes and don't pin.- Weigh the cost of the repair against the jacket's value.
Replace it or repair it?
A no-sew replacement slider clamps over the existing teeth with a thumbscrew. Its maker says it can slide past some broken teeth. We haven't tested one.
| Symptom | Likely fix | Facts |
|---|---|---|
| Teeth split open behind the slider | Remove the bottom stop and slider, realign the teeth, refit both | – |
| Slider came off one side | Put it back on: see how to put a zipper back on a jacket | – |
| Zipper stuck | Free caught fabric, straighten bent teeth, lubricate | – |
| Slider worn or broken | Replace the slider; a no-sew clip-on slider is another option | – |
| Teeth missing, tape torn or retainer box broken | Replace the whole zipper (this guide) | – |
Choose the right replacement zipper
Type
Jackets that open fully at the bottom need a separating (open-end) zipper. On a separating zipper, a retainer pin slides into a retainer box at the bottom.
Match the old zipper's type where you can. Rocky Woods lists metal teeth for leather apparel.
Length and size
- Length: with the zipper closed, measure from the top of the top stop to the bottom of the retainer box. Ignore the extra tape.
- Two-way zippers: measure to the bottom of the reinforcement tape.
- Size (gauge): measure across the closed teeth in millimeters. If the old zipper won't close, measure one side and double it.
Jacket zippers are sold in fixed lengths, for example 24 in or 36 in, with #5 teeth being 5 mm. Buy the length that matches your measurement, ideally in the same color as the old zipper.
| Teeth | Typical uses (Rocky Woods' YKK guide) | Facts |
|---|---|---|
| Metal | Heavy coats, leather apparel | – |
| Molded plastic | Jackets and coats | – |
| Coil | Lightweight jackets | – |
Tools and materials
| Item | What it's for | Facts |
|---|---|---|
| New separating zipper | Replacement | – |
| Seam ripper or small sharp scissors | Unpicking the old zipper and the lining | – |
| Needle-nose pliers | Removing and refitting stops | – |
| Double-sided basting tape or leather glue | Holding the zipper in place | – |
| Clips | Holding layers without pin holes | – |
| Sewing machine with a zipper foot | Sewing it in | – |
| Leather machine needle (leather jackets) | Cuts through leather | – |
| Polyester or nylon thread | Cotton breaks down in leather | – |
| Hand needles and waxed thread (optional) | Hand sewing if your machine can't | – |
How to change a zipper on a jacket, step by step
Step 1: Photograph and mark the old zipper
Take photos of how the zipper tape sits at the top, at the hem and at any pocket or collar seams. Mark where those seams meet the tape. You'll match the new zipper to these points.
Step 2: Open the lining (lined jackets)
If the zipper tape is caught in the lining seam, open that seam first. The Leather Repair Company opens a jacket's lining with a seam ripper or sharp knife to reach damage from inside, taking care not to cut the leather. Patch makers also separate the lining from the leather before sewing through a jacket.
Step 3: Unpick the old zipper
Cut the stitches one at a time rather than pulling, which can stretch or tear the material. Pull out the loose threads. On leather, keep the old holes clean and open: you'll sew through them again.
Step 4: Check the orientation
Separate the new zipper and lay each half face up on its side of the jacket, to make sure the pin and box end up on the correct sides. Match the bottom of the zipper to the bottom of the jacket.
Step 5: Hold it in place without pins
Pins leave permanent holes in leather. Sailrite uses double-sided basting tape to hold zippers before sewing, and glue is another option. Leather Collection's care page says not to put tape on its leather. That advice is about a garment's outer surface; basting tape here sits inside the seam, hidden. Test any tape or glue on a hidden spot first.
At the top, fold the end of the zipper tape in so it's enclosed in the seam. Don't stretch the edges as you go.
Step 6: Line both sides up
Close the zipper and check that the two fronts meet evenly, and that the marks from Step 1 line up on both sides.
Step 7: Sew along the old stitching line
Fit a zipper foot. On leather, use a leather needle, polyester thread and a longer stitch. Sew along the previous stitching line on each side. Sew a test line on a scrap first, because every new hole in leather is permanent.
When the slider gets in the way, stop with the needle down, lift the foot, move the slider behind it, lower the foot and carry on.
If your machine can't handle the thickness, hand stitch through the old holes instead. See how to sew leather by hand.
Step 8: Close the lining and test
Restitch the lining seam. Zip the jacket up and down several times and check that both sides meet. If one section doesn't line up, unpick that part and sew it again.
If the jacket's snaps are failing too, see how to fix a snap button on a jacket.
Fixing a stuck or split zipper first
If the zipper is only stuck or split, try these before replacing it:
- Free any lining or fabric caught in the slider. Use pliers if needed and trim loose threads.
- Straighten bent teeth with needle-nose pliers.
- For a split zipper, remove the bottom stop and slider, push the teeth together from the bottom up, re-thread the slider and refit the stop.
- If the stop can't be reused, sew six to eight stitches across the bottom of the teeth as a new stop.
Oxfam suggests petroleum jelly for plastic zips and WD-40 for metal zips, or a graphite pencil or soap on the teeth. Those tips are for fabric garments. WD-40's own list of surfaces it's safe on doesn't mention leather. On a leather jacket, keep any lubricant on the teeth and off the leather, and test on a hidden spot.
Common mistakes
| Mistake | What happens | Fix | Facts |
|---|---|---|---|
| Buying a closed-end zipper | The jacket won't open at the bottom | Buy a separating zipper | – |
| Measuring the tape, not the teeth | Zipper is the wrong length | Top stop to bottom of retainer box | – |
| Pinning leather | Permanent holes | Basting tape, glue or clips | – |
| Pulling stitches out | Stretched or torn edges | Cut them one at a time | – |
| New stitch line on leather | Extra permanent holes | Sew through the old holes | – |
| Stretching the edge as you go | Fronts don't meet | Match the bottoms and check before sewing | – |
| Cotton thread | Breaks down in leather | Polyester or nylon | – |
Is a DIY zipper change worth it?
That depends on the jacket. Oxfam's advice is to weigh the cost of a replacement zipper against the value of the garment, and to see a professional if you're not confident. We don't quote repair prices; they vary by shop and jacket. On a leather jacket you may also have to open the lining. For a professional zipper replacement on leather, you can find repairers through leathershopnearme.com.
Leather Collection lists no repair or replacement-part service. Its custom leather jackets are made to order in the leather, style, color and fit you choose.
FAQ
How do you put a zipper back on a jacket?
Remove the bottom stop, slide the slider back onto the teeth from the bottom, then refit the stop or sew a thread stop. The full method is in how to put a zipper back on a jacket.
Can you change a zipper on a jacket without tools?
Not the whole zipper; that needs unpicking and sewing. If only the slider is broken, a no-sew replacement slider fits with a thumbscrew, according to its maker.
How hard is it to change a zipper on a leather jacket?
Harder than on an unlined fabric jacket. You usually open the lining, need a leather needle and polyester thread, and can't pin. If you're not confident, Oxfam suggests a professional.
My zipper is stuck. How can I unstick it?
Free any caught fabric, straighten bent teeth with pliers, then try a little lubricant or graphite on the teeth. On leather, keep the lubricant off the leather and test first.
hosob Editorial Team
hosob articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.