Leather Care & Cleaning
How to Care for Leather: A Routine From Everyday Wipe to Seasonal Storage
A leather care routine: wipe after wear, blot spills, dry without heat, test products, store under cotton. Plus a 7-step session and the conditioner debate.
To care for leather, keep it clean, dry and away from heat. Wipe off dust with a soft dry cloth, blot spills, let wet leather dry at room temperature, test every product on a hidden spot, and store it on a wide hanger or under a breathable cover in a cool, dry place. Conditioning is optional, and sources disagree on whether it makes leather last longer.
This page is the routine, step by step. Item-by-item guides are listed in how to clean and care for leather. For choosing leather and the basics of each type, our partner site has how to care for leather on leatherguide.org.
Know your leather first
Grade matters too. Full grain and top grain are the highest grades; split leather is generally less durable, and bonded leather less durable still. Faux leather has its own guide: how to protect faux leather.
| Leather | What changes in care | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Finished (smooth, coated) | Most common and most stain-resistant | – |
| Aniline or unfinished | Very absorbent; stains easily | – |
| Suede or nubuck | Special brushes and cleaners; no regular conditioner | – |
| Vegetable-tanned | May shrink or stiffen when wet | – |
| Faux (PU or PVC) | A plastic coating on fabric, with different rules | – |
The care routine at a glance
Serious stains go to a professional leather cleaner. Drying in detail: how to dry leather without damaging it.
| When | What to do | Source |
|---|---|---|
| After each wear | Wipe off dust and rain with a soft, dry cloth | – |
| Every time you handle it | Clean hands; oils and residue transfer to leather | – |
| Weekly, for items used often | Wipe dust and spots with a soft cloth or brush | – |
| A spill | Blot with a clean cloth; don't rub | – |
| A stain | Damp cloth with a little mild soap, then dry the spot | – |
| It got wet | Dry at room temperature, never in a dryer or by a heater | – |
| Once or twice a year | Clean with a cleaner made for leather | – |
| When it looks dry or matte | Consider conditioning (see the debate below) | – |
| In storage | Air bags and jackets every few weeks to prevent mold | – |
A seasonal care session in 7 steps
- Empty and dust it. Wipe dust away with a soft cloth or brush. A soft brush reaches creases and seams.
- Spot test. Try every cleaner and conditioner on a hidden area first.
- Clean. Use a cleaner made for leather, or a damp cloth with a little mild soap on soiled areas. Don't soak leather.
- Let it dry. Room temperature, no heat.
- Condition, if you choose to. Apply evenly with a soft cloth, let it soak in, then wipe off the extra. Too much can leave leather sticky, attract dust and darken it.
- Protect. A water and stain repellent helps prevent water stains and soiling.
- Store it well. Use a wide wooden, plastic or padded hanger in a cool, dry, ventilated place, not an attic or cellar. Cover it with cotton, not plastic. Keep it out of direct sunlight, which can fade it.
Does conditioning make leather last longer? Sources disagree
- For: one conditioner maker says leather no longer makes its own oils once tanned, so conditioner replaces them. A care brand advises conditioning after sun, heat, water and before storage.
- Against: the US National Park Service says researchers found dressings have no preservative effect, and they can leave a sticky surface. Canadian conservators advise against dressings on stiff vegetable-tanned leather in collections.
The store's coat care says to condition "now and then". Our view: condition only when the leather looks matte or dry, in thin coats, after a spot test. Timing is covered in how often to condition leather, and products in how to choose a leather conditioner.
In this video, leather goods maker Tanner Leatherstein argues that most chrome-tanned leather doesn't need care products and that they can darken good aniline leather, with undyed vegetable-tanned leather as the exception. It is one maker's view; the conditioner makers above disagree, and both sides agree on testing a hidden spot first.
What not to put on leather
- Saddle soap, mink oil, shoe cream and cleaning fluid
- Bleach, on any leather
- Alcohol and sanitizer, which damage the topcoat of finished leather
- Normal dry cleaning, which removes essential oils; use a leather specialist
- Plastic covers in storage
More household products are checked in leather care home remedies: what works and what to avoid.
Care by item
- Bags and wallets: leather stretches, so don't overfill them.
- Jackets and coats: how to clean a leather coat
- Gloves: how to care for leather gloves
- Motorcycle gear: how to maintain motorcycle riding gear
Quick answers
What oil can I put on leather?
We don't recommend a household oil. Neatsfoot oil, a traditional choice, darkens leather and is criticized for oxidizing. Options are compared in natural conditioners for leather.
Is it okay to use Dawn dish soap on leather?
Sources differ: one motorcycle maker suggests a small amount of mild dish soap, while a glove maker prefers soap flakes or mild detergent to liquid soap.
Is Vaseline a good leather conditioner?
We cover petroleum jelly separately in can you use petroleum jelly on leather?
The Leather Collection leather care instructions list the products to use and avoid, plus storage tips.
hosob Editorial Team
hosob articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.