How to Polish Leather Shoes and Boots: Cream, Wax and Buff

Polishing leather means cleaning it, rubbing in a thin coat of color-matched cream polish, letting it soak in, then buffing it with a horsehair brush. For more shine and protection, finish with a very thin layer of wax polish and buff again, keeping wax light where the leather bends. Polish is for smooth leather shoes and boots, not suede, jackets or sofas.

This is part of our leather care and cleaning guide. For the routine care of other leather, see how to care for leather.

What you can polish, and what you can't

Patent leather has its own rules; see how to care for patent leather. For suede shoes, start with can you use suede cleaner on leather?

Cream polish or wax polish?

The boot maker and the shoemaker we checked both use cream first and wax last. Check the label of any wax you buy. One popular wax polish lists mink oil among its ingredients, and the store advises against mink oil on its leather garments.

What you need

• A soft brush to remove dirt, and a horsehair brush to buff
• A leather cleaner or renovator cream
• Cream polish in a matching color
• Wax polish, neutral or color-matched
• A soft cotton cloth, such as an old T-shirt
• Shoe trees

How to polish leather in 7 steps

1. Prepare the shoes. Remove the laces and put in shoe trees.
2. Brush off dirt. Use a soft brush, getting into the stitching and seams. Polishing over grit can scratch the leather.
3. Clean and test. Clean the whole upper with a leather cleaner or renovator. Try each new product on a hidden spot, such as the inside heel. Mixing your own? See how to make a homemade leather cleaner.
4. Apply cream polish thinly. Use a small amount on a cloth in small circles; a little goes a long way.
5. Let it soak in. Leave it at least two hours or overnight.
6. Buff with a horsehair brush. Brush in long, firm strokes; repeat steps 4 to 6 if the leather was very dry.
7. Add a thin wax layer. Rub a little wax polish in small circles, let it dry 3 to 5 minutes, then buff until the haze is gone. Build extra shine only on the toe and heel, not where the shoe flexes, or the wax can crack.

In this video, English shoemaker Joseph Cheaney & Sons shows the same order: brush off dust, clean with a renovator, apply a colored cream, then wax, with mirror shine only on parts that don't flex. Watch the welt brush, which works polish into the stitching.

Polish or condition first?

Clean and condition first, then polish. The shoemaker's routine starts with a renovator that cleans and prepares the leather before any colored cream, and boot maker Ariat cleans before polishing because dirty leather can't absorb the polish. Cream polish itself nourishes as well as colors. For conditioner steps, see how to apply leather conditioner.

If your boots are wet, let them dry fully at room temperature before any polish. See how to dry leather without damaging it.

Mistakes to avoid

• Thick wax. It can't bend with the leather and cracks; buff off the flakes with a horsehair brush.
• Mirror shine on flex points. Keep high-gloss layers to the toe and heel.
• The wrong color. A darker or lighter cream changes the shade.
• Shoe polish on clothing or sofas.
• Polish on suede.

Quick answers

Should you polish or condition leather first?

Clean and condition first, then polish.

How do you make leather shiny again?

Clean it, apply a thin coat of cream polish, then buff with a horsehair brush; a thin wax layer adds more gloss.

Can I use Dawn to clean leather boots?

A motorcycle maker suggests a small amount of mild dish soap in lukewarm water for minor stains on leather, but a glove maker says to avoid liquid soap. We found no test of Dawn by name.

Riding boots get dirty fast. The Leather Collection motorcycle boots are cowhide, about 0.05 to 0.06 in (1.2 to 1.5 mm) thick, and the store suggests a damp-cloth wipe after rides and a conditioner every few months.